62 Lancer

Reflections on Rebuild

Having spent so much time putting this together (but very little concentrated time) over the last 2 years, my foggy memory has struck and left high and dry.  I’m not sure what is causing my trouble with caster, but I suspect its one of 3 things:

  1.  The guys at the alignment shop were not familiar with old stuff
  2. My bushings are in wrong (a quick visual showed this is probably not the case…PHEW!)
  3. my strut rod bushings are too big and pushing the LCAs backwards, eliminating the gains from my UCA bushings.

I used the Moog 7068 bushings and fear this messed things up:

Strut rod bushings

Giving up on that particular issue, I set my ride height per the FSM at 15/16″ (stock is 1 7/8″) but after reading Condran, I was measuring from the wrong spot so I need to do it over.  I’ve almost run out of preload on the torsion bars, so we’ll have to see what I can do about that.

More later….

Alignment Fun 9-28-08

Moog Bushings 9-30-08

Moog Bushings 9-30-08,
originally uploaded by menkoj.

Well after all that work, the Lancer wasn’t able to be succesfully aligned, atleast by the local talent at Firestone. Here’s what I got:

L: +.2 caster, -1.2 camber
R: +.8 caster, -1.2 camber

Looking at my offset bushings, I believe the Right side is somewhere in the ballpark, but the left isn’t. I think they control arms have to come off. What do you guys think?

Rear End Fun 3-31-08

To do:

  • Find center section, need clips and bolts to connect U-joint. May need larger cups, lock rings, etc
  • finish tightening nuts at front of driveshaft
  • instructions for adding fluid to center chunk–get baster or something to put the fluid way in since it leaks when just put straight in the drain plug
  • #8 nuts for mounting. redrill the pattern on the prop valve

no double space after returnh

Brakes and more Brakes 3-18-08

Finally had some success last weekend and swapped the slave cylinders around, and reassembled. Passenger rear drum is still very tight, so I think I need to shorten the housing a bit to give the cable some more slack. That would probably help with the kinking of the cable as well, so that’s on the list. Things I finally accomplished:

  • hardlines all connected in the rear (except the drivers side, need to fab a bracket for it)
  • drums on with new 1/2″ hubcentric spacers
  • shocks mounted (need to swap washer)

To do:

  • create bracket for hardlines
  • swap washer on drivers side rear shock
  • fill up pumpkin
  • shorten parking cable
  • new front lines for prop valve mounting
  • drive shaft hook up with U joint

To do 11-18-07:

  • order 1/2″ spacers (hubcentric?)
  • remove ujoint (press out)
  • reassemble rear brakes
  • move shock plates and mount shocks
  • fill rear diff
  • connect left front brake line (stuck hardline)
  • connect all soft lines
  • mount for brake prop valve (jared has prop valve still)
  • Mount MC and connect residual pressure valve
  • fix tranny lines

11-17-07: Brakes Weekend

This weekend promises to be a big one, as I am having a solid time to work on the car and hope to have Junkyard Hero coming to play over there. Here’s the list:

* install lowering blocks/springs/shocks
* tune shocks
* tighten up rear suspension
* investigate ways to lower the front spring eye
* paint springs
* install driveshaft and conversion u-joint
* assemble brakes and connect rear parking brake lines
* install M/C and rear brake line
* install cotter pins on front end, adjust wheel bearings
* fill and bleed brakes

Parts to bring:

* brake bleeding kit and fluid
* black paint
* u-bolts and nuts
* torsion bars
* pins for front brakes

All did not go well

Several problems arose as I moved on. 5/16″ spacers are not big enough, need 1/2″ in the rear. Put the spring plates on sideways, so couldn’t hook up the shocks. New dent in the gas tank from a jack slippage. And f’d up the brake assembly withCorrect Drum Spring Assembly the wrong springs. Should look like this so I will need to fix that. And I can’t get the ujoint out of the old driveshaft.

9-7-07 Still playing with my Rear!

When I last left you, I was struggling with the fact that:1) I threw away the parking brake levers for one side of the car…couldn’t source them anywhere new

2) The rear wheels were rubbing against the springs. A quick look showed me offset parts would be hard to do in my setup owing to the fact my front spring hangers are different than 63-up stuff

3) The right rear wheel was stuck on because I had f’d up the axle and it was mishappen, making it kinda hard to put on, and impossible to get off.


I first pounded away on the rear wheel with all manner of hammer. The crap would not move at all. There was no good way to get any of the pry bars I had (from 12? to 4? long) since I needed something with a very sharp 90 degree bend to fit in between the wheel and drum. After contemplating fabricating my own removal tool and cursing my own stupidity, I finally gave a try with my old pry bar that I used to remove nails from our hardwood floor, and sure enough, I was able to get enough gap with some sustained efforts to actually remove the wheel! HOOOORAY! I swear I was the happiest fool around.

Since I was so frustrated with that, I decided to repaint the entire underside of my car. No problem, 10 hours of sanding and it was ready to rock. The problem was, I used white epoxy, which left a fine mist on just about everything…making it look like crap. Whatever, I didn’t care that I spent many-an-hour making my rear end nice and black!

After that interlude, I pressed the old studs out, put 3? ones in, bought some 5/16? spacers, and slapped it all back together. HOOOORAY again! I now have a decent amount of clearance on the inside, and I think I have enough on the outside as well. I bought some 1? lowering blocks but of course the new ubolts I bought for a 65 Mustang are too short to accommodate the blocks, so I need to remove those and get something longer. If only the 3? 8.75? rear u bolts I have in my box would be a little tighter on my axle housing, I’d be set. Ah its all gravy.

My next step is to get the brakes put back together and connect up the driveshaft again, drop the liquid into rear end, and then finish up plumbing the front brakes. I *think* that would make the car almost driveable enough to get an alignment and possibly get back on the road.

After that…I gotta put the new cam, 4bbl intake, and 5 speed in. I need to locate a 4bbl air cleaner, so let me know if you know of any around.

6-25-07 Rear End Progress!

After months of playing around with the Ford 8? rear, I’ve finally made some progress. Both of the backing plates were deformed and would not slide over the bearings, making me think it was not supposed to. This led to numerous problems as I got the order incorrect, and the bearings would not fit into the axle. which led to more pressing on-off of the bearings (a total of 4 times, with 1 ruined set). THANKS JARED! So I learned more and more.

Decided to forgo powdercoating and sprayed Eastwoods extreme chassis black on over at Rob’s house. That came out very nice my only regret was not spraying the center section as well, since the housing looks so nice. Course, that won’t last as I try to install it.

Disassembly of the old 7.25? went perfectly, with 3 of 4 U bolts deciding they would part with their nuts (quite kind of them I must admit). The rest of the rusty parts were easily persuaded to come loose with a strong dose of PB Blaster and pipe extension. I discovered that the front spring hangers are unique to the 62 Lancer, so I won’t be able to use the drop spring hanger I had planned on. The old springs were about 1? less in arch, and about half as strong based on my “scientific” testing (130lbs of me perched precariously while Jared measured the deflection). Once I get it all back together, I’ll have some killer rake that will need some spring dearching. All in good time. First, it must get back together.

Never fear, I bumbled another part of the install as I threw away the old shoes from the 8? rear, including the parking brake lever that attaches to the cable to activate the shoe. DOH! A trip to the junkyard may be in my future. Hopefully it can be sourced, but we’ll see. Other than fighting off the desire to sand down the entire floor and paint it, I’m doing pretty well. Once I blast the hangers and get that stuff ready, I should be able to put the rear together and under the car. Stay tuned!

4-10-07 SPAX this you bushing!Finding myself with a few spare evening moments, I was tasked with either cleaning up the garage, pulling the axles back out of the Ford 8?, or finding another task to do. The absence of lug nuts (at Greg’s) precluding pounding off the axles, and besides, it was 9:15pm, and the neighbors might frown on the noise. Moving my plastic box of rear suspension parts, I peeled it open to look at what little projects 1) could be done in my garage currently and 2) would not take too long. Afterall, I do have comprehensive exams in 3 weeks and theoretically should be studying for those! My eyes settled upon those mysterious little Energy Suspension boxes containing the 98110-G bushings. Not so much following as remembering Dave Mapes’instructions, I proceeded to butcher those bushings with a razor blade so badly I am ashamed to post a picture of it. I also discovered I may have wanted to plan a little bit better to put the adjuster and cut side of the bushing in the right place to allow for easy access. We’ll see what happens. Here are Dave’s instructions:

Dave’s Install and Tips

“The Energy Suspension 9-8110G bushings seem to fit fine (11/16? ID
hourglass/ spindle shape). I had to trim one end with my pen knife to
get them started into the shock eye. I didn’t actually trim the max
OD on that side very much, just tapered the end down to get it to
squeeze into the 1.25? shock eye. I used a 3? long 0.5? bolt with some
large washers (actually used 2 0.5? ID washers outside of two 5/8? ID
body washers to pull the liberally lubed bushing part way through the
eye, then finished it off by driving it the rest of the way through by
the (very) judicious us of a BFH. I’m sure the RIGHT (a press and a
tapered guide tube) tools would be able to slip these bushings into
place without trimming.

Installation on the 68 Dart was slightly easier than the original Spax
bushings as a little bit of super lube (with Dupont Teflon TM <BFG>)
and rubber hammer work slipped them right on. I first tightened the
nuts with the washers on concave side out to pull the bushings right
down on the studs and compress them slightly, then I was able to flip
them concave side in and snug the nuts down to complete the install.
Both mounting studs were 11/16?.

I installed the shock with the trimmed side of the bushings “in”
towards the spring plate on the bottom and towards the body/trunk at
the top. This will insure that they will stay on the car, in the
unlikely event that shock eyes migrate towards the trimmed end (the
way the bushing “mushes” out once the nuts are run in, I view this as
very very un- likely, but better safe than sorry). This requires some
planning on the bottom eye so that you have the bushings in either
shock facing so that the adjusters end up facing the way you want them
with the trimmed end of the bushings to the spring plate. I like the
rear adjusters facing in towards the center line of the car and the
fronts facing the outside of the car.”

The Best Laid Plans!


Tried to get some serious work done on the rear end today and ended up befuddled. Painted the whole rear tube and parts only to have it get hot and absorb the carpet, finger prints, and anything else it came in touch with. To add insult to injury the sealed bearing on the passenger side burped out its seal as I was pounding it in, meaning I have to pull it all back apart. Moving to plan B, I discovered my box of parts containing the shock plates and assorted other pieces was also MIA, meaning I didn’t even have the parts to do a dry fit.Not to be detered, I attempted to break loose the front brake lines at the junction block (again!) only to be stymied (again!). The front line is nut is totally bamboozeled, so I think I am going to have to forgo the new T, OR run all new lines. Also missing was the prop valve and other pieces that I had hoped to mount as part of plan B, to no effect. Since they don’t sell pre-bent lines for my car, I’m not sure what I will do.

No problem! I then took a look at the rear springs and realized that the drop hangers that I bought will not work on the 62 since it does not have the vertical hanger like the 63-up models. If I try to adapt it, the holes will not end up in the right place, rendering it all useless. Fun for me! I did get my poly bushings installed on the front spring eyes, but now that I have the smaller bolt holes in the hangers, I’m not sure what I will do.

So 4 hours worked, so little to show for it. Atleast I had the good sense to not remove the rear end currently working as I thought that would lead to nothing but more hassles. The center section is still getting built up, so I’ll have to see what will happen from there. Fingers are crossed! Was all fired up to get good stuff done and felt more like spinning my wheels today.

I did talk to Bob Reed who made the good suggestion that I should pursue getting custom springs made with less arch and the same spring rate I currently have (120 or less). While not what I *wanted* to do since I have new springs sitting here, it could be what I end up doing. The best laid plans…

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